When the D.C. Burmese restaurant Thamee closed in March 2020 at the onset of the pandemic, its owners didn’t know if they’d ever open their 1-year-old business again. They had just had their first five straight weeks of profitability when D.C. shut down in-person dining for the first time, and though they had a lot of momentum behind them the restaurant had recently been named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant they didn’t feel equipped to transform their upscale dine-in business into a carryout and delivery joint. At the time, co-owner Eric Wang told me that if Thamee was still shut down by June, he’d place the restaurant’s chances of survival around 50 percent.