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Green Almond Pantry opens in Georgetown with Mediterranean dishes like seasonal focaccia bread. Photography courtesy of Green Almond Pantry
The pandemic has been tough on small restaurants particularly Green Almond Pantry, whose tiny Shaw space suffered a devastating fire five days before Christmas. Chef/owner Cagla Onal-Urel, usually a beaming presence at her beloved Mediterranean lunch counter and market, looks pained as she recounts that time. She and general manager Kat Kempner cancelled their flood of holiday orders, issued refunds, and threw out fire-damaged food and melted Christmas candies they’d painstakingly prepared by hand.
Thankfully, this story has a happy ending or a new beginning, as Green Almond reopens in Georgetown today. Onal-Urel, a Turkish native who cooked at fine dining Italian restaurant Obelisk for years before leading the kitchen at Etto on 14th Street, is already greeting former Shaw regulars who are eager check out the new space a 15 counter
Pillowy, golden-brown, and soaked with olive oil, focaccia offers a shiny, substantial meal all by itself. The dimpled Italian flatbread, rich enough to be eaten plain but often found in a pizza-adjacent form with tomatoes and cheese or whatever produce is in season, has been proliferating at a number of D.C. restaurants, markets, and bakeries since before the pandemic began. Exceptional squares have appeared at rustic Italian all-day cafe Piccolina and beloved Mediterranean lunch counter Green Almond Pantry (currently on hiatus pending a move). High-end full-service kitchens like Tail Up Goat,Lutèce, and Modena have workshopped their own versions. Focaccia works well as a takeout item, and it’s also gained popularity with home bakers during lockdown, second only to sourdough. Here’s everything you need to know about finding focaccia around the District.
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