i rode for three hours. some ghost towns, dead gas stations, and nothing but nothing, and, you know, suddenly we arrive in marfa. [upbeat pop music] ♪ ♪ - and it's like, uh, "would you like some bruschetta? some salumi," you know. some $900 ponchos. - that's right [all chuckling] - what--what's going on? - clearly, it's not the old, old family marfa. ♪ ♪ - ♪ you're everything ♪ - marfa has become a pretty distinct culture. tourist town, art town, cowboy town. it's just got it all. you can get calamari. in marfa. who'd a thunk it? 20 years ago, nobody even knew what the word meant.