There has never been a better time to discover the perks of being a restaurant regular
Richard Morgan, The Washington Post
Jan. 25, 2021
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There are two types of experiences food obsessives want. The first is vulgar and fairly petty: the bucket-list stuff, the El Bulli brags, the French Laundry fuss, the Noma reservations for folks who call Eleven Madison Park "EMP" and who fly to Tokyo to try the rarest Cronuts. For all their culinary variety, the recipes share one overpowering ingredient: the spotlight. But now that the pandemic has made us all work-from-home Bourdains, the other dream experience can step out of the shadows for overdue prominence. It's the Cheers fantasy, to walk into a spot where everyone knows your name, where, sure, they know your usual order, but they also know you. The phrase for this is being a regular, but there's nothing regular about it.