South African abalone, a curious fist-sized sea snail, is a highly prized morsel in East Asia and the unwitting instigator of 30 years of trouble for fishing communities along Africa’s southern coast. Abalone in Hawston, South Africa, was abundant and especially tasty, yet the demand largely put the village and its traditional fishers out of business, or made them criminals overnight, when authorities banned abalone fishing to preserve the species and stop illegal poaching. Today, the abalone industry is a mixture of illegal poaching, farmed varieties and miniscule catches for local farmers. But local players have been meeting to find a better way to fish the sought-after snail.