low-cost, working-class stall of the dai pai dong street variety has in fact blown up, along with the rest of the economy. rich kids and tv guys like me want to eat here, and they do. how do you make a bowl of perfect happiness? cook noodles in boiling water, liberally flavored with chilies and lard. immerse your cooked noodles in a soy-inflicted bath of deeply sinister, deeply pleasurable pork stock. little bit of baby bok choy, heat for a few seconds, simmering, simmering, then garnish with a bit of slowly cooked, heavily reduced, almost candied pork. then suck those noodles loudly and enjoy. ♪