sushi chefs, he heads every day to tsukiji, tokyo's central fish market. where nearly 3,000 tons of the world's best seafood arrives every day. but unlike most others at his level, who arrive at 4:00 a.m. to cream off what they perceive as the best and freshest, yasuda-san arrives later. he does not buy the ridiculously expensive otoro, the fatty belly meat of the blue fin tuna, that people have been known to pay hundreds of dollars a pound for. instead, he buys tuna from the heads, using his knife skills to go for qualities that most others miss. removing every bit of sinew from what would otherwise be a difficult piece of meat. in tow, it's well, perfect. and he cures the results, actually cures it. breaking down its molecular structure in a desirable way by freezing it quickly in a medical-grade blast freezer, where it will stay for a week or longer at minus 82 degrees celsius. he pioneered this technique years ago in new york, where, if you bothered to ask, he would've proudly told you that the absolutely unbelievably sublime