>> masa: a lot of time. >> anthony: a lot of work. a lot of pain. what was it like apprenticing here? hard? >> masa: his father was very tough. >> anthony: yeah? >> masa: very tough. at that time, his grandfather was here too. very tough. >> anthony: young masa was first hired here as an apprentice by shokunin toshiaku sugiyama. this is his son, mamoru sugyiyama, who runs sushiko today. the fourth generation to uphold the standards and family tradition. >> sugyiyama: [ speaking japanese ]. >> anthony: some things should stay the same. >> masa: exactly, yes. >> sugyiyama: [ speaking japanese ] >> masa: aji. >> sugyiyama: [ speaking japanese ] >> masa: mix. >> anthony: seared horse mackerel over green onion and ginger drizzled with house-made soy. >> masa: yeah, i love this kind of stuff.