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Biryani can be an elaborate, ambitious affair, packed with layer upon layer of spiced meat and vegetables all steaming together with ghee. This version is simplified, with just two layers—marinated chicken thighs and parboiled basmati—cooked together in a heavy-lidded dutch oven to keep all the steam (and flavor) locked in. Because biryani is all about the rice, this is the time to splurge on some extra-long, premium aged basmati. (You might need to go beyond your local supermarket and search online or at a specialty store.) Look for rice with a golden hue which indicates that it has been properly aged and ensures fluffy, distinct, fragrant grains.

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