In the past, Samuel Ross has always delved into quite deep, stimulating topics: the relationship between modernism, traditionalism and utilitarianism when they all come together in his AW19 range; the concept of “a professional man moving into a working environment”; an examination of the changes that took place in our world in the near (and distant) past. This year, the London-based designer brings forth his new menswear range in a film dubbed
'Untitled' — an energetic entwining of two disparate mood, moving between calm and burning intensity.
Words like 'portal', 'structure', 'saturate', 'mediate' and 'open' are enunciated tersely to sinister, futuristic beats; the set/runway itself has a dystopian, 1984-esque feel to it. Security cameras and voyeuristic spotlights are zooming in and focusing on the film's subjects in a room that is filled with what can be described as not much — a triangular structure, some foliage and rocks, shaping out the naturally-formed runway. Here, Ross takes the typical tropes of workwear and tech gear and re-interprets them through technical zip-up jackets, gilets, and trouser options, all combined with an elevated and interpretative take on formal wear. Notable mentions from the range include a pleated pajama look that transcends loungewear, a deconstructed and free-flowing brown suit, a range of graphic and geometrically-informed sweaters and a strong range of coats in bold colors (think purple double-breasted number worn by one of the models during the first half of this digital runway show.)