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Method Split the escarole in half, down through the root, and split in half again. Cut away the root and stalk and then separate all the leaves. Wash in a large bowl of very cold water and then spin-dry before filling a large salad bowl. Roll the pears in the lemon juice. Halve them and scoop out the cores with a teaspoon. Then slice them not too thinly and return them to the lemon juice. Spread them out over the salad. Cut the Roquefort as best you can and then distribute the pieces in turn. Sprinkle ½tsp sea salt, ½tsp coarsely milled black pepper and the vinegar into the salad, and then add the olive oil. With a sharp knife, cut down into the salad and turn the leaves in the process. Keep going until thoroughly mixed. Taste the leaves – they may need more seasoning, or a bit more oil for lubrication. ....
I t is 1972. I am 27. My friend Dusty Wesker, wife of Arnold Wesker who is great mate of my then husband Tom, thrusts an Evening Standard at me announcing a competition they are running whereby the prize is to be the paper’s restaurant critic. With one or maybe even both of my two small daughters – the younger only a few months old – in my arms or round my feet I am thinking I probably shouldn’t be considering a job, but grievously I miss working, having been a copywriter at JWT and a journalist on the new, improved Radio Times. And the prize obtains only for three months…what harm can it do? I enter on the closing date. ....