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Street food heads inside with delicious results


Copyright © 2021 Albuquerque Journal
In Santa Fe, calling your new restaurant Horno means staking a bold claim. By referencing the oldest oven around, the name conjures up a fine-dining venture that might try to encapsulate the City Different’s oldest influences. But you won’t find pueblo bread or empanadas at chef-owner David Sellers’ refreshing and well-priced new Horno.
Sellers has variously called the venture “food for the people” and “an Italian-leaning gastropub,” but Horno’s menu is really all over the map. Its multicultural stew of street food influences is redolent of Sellers’ seven years at the Street Food Institute, the food truck-focused nonprofit and culinary training program he helped found in 2014. At its three trucks and two cafés, the Street Food Institute seems to serve everything under the sun – and it’s consistently good, too. Sellers has also logged time at Santacafé and as chef-owner of the late, lamented Amavi (2007-12). ....

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Paloma: Where desserts are 'a total work of art'


Copyright © 2021 Albuquerque Journal
The German term “Gesamtkunstwerk” describes a creative result where different art forms – and, often, portions of the artist’s psyche itself – are combined to create a “total work of art.”
Santa Fe’s best approximation of the edible Gesamtkunstwerk happens five nights a week atop a 24-by-48-inch Boos block in the kitchen at Paloma. In that cramped corner, Paloma’s executive pastry chef Jessica Brewer, 29, is turning out the most inventive, seasonal and addictive desserts in the state.
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“You get the sweet, you get the crunch, the salt. The texture, acidity, sourness, creaminess. All of these things matter,” says Brewer, describing her culinary worldview. The Clark Kent-bespectacled, sleeve-tattooed, self-professed heavy-metalhead, video-game fanatic and science nerd is a third-generation chef and proud graduate of the Santa Fe Community College Culinary Arts program. To eat her dessert ....

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