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143 Water St., Stonington In my wildest dreams, I never imagine I’d be touting the virtues of tofu, but it’s an excellent protein in the Crispy Tofu Salad ($16) at the Water Street Café. And it’s healthy. This dish was a favorite even before COVID, and it travels nicely as a takeout. Prepared with a generous heap of flash-fried tofu bites nestled on top of a bed of mixed greens and dressed with a soy-wasabi vinaigrette, it’s a bold bite. The tofu is crispy on the exterior and soft inside, and the pungent wasabi provides a kick. As a takeout, the salad is better when the tofu is packed separately and assembled at home, and I recommend asking for extra dressing. ....