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Welcome to February's Observer Food Monthly


Last modified on Sun 21 Feb 2021 14.48 EST
There is much to devour in this month’s magazine. We have a dazzling set of recipes from Reem Kassis, author of
The Arabesque Table. And gorgeous recipes they are. A butternut squash fatteh, chicken stuffed with walnuts, coriander and chilli, and a wonderful pistachio cake with a heady buttercream of orange blossom water. These are recipes that owe much to Kassis’s Palestinian background, and we have an interview with her, too.
Ed Cumming has been talking with fishermen about the double horrors of Brexit and coronavirus, and in particular about how the industry will have to change if it is to survive. He gets to the bottom of Pesky Fish, whose new approach to supplying restaurants with fresh, sustainable seafood is making waves. And I have a whole collection of fish recipes for you, from mussel and fennel salad to spiced prawn cakes. ....

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Rice vinegar and peanut butter: chef Erchen Chang reveals her kitchen must-haves


Erchen Chang is the head chef of BAO in London
Credit: Getty Images
“It was a long year of lockdowns in 2020, but I was glad we were finally able to open the doors of Café Bao in December – even if it was only for a week,” says Erchen Chang, head chef of the cult Taiwanese restaurant group, Bao. Having started as a stall selling pork bao buns and Taiwanese fried chicken in Netil Market, Bao has grown to include five permanent sites around London, the newest of which is Café Bao, a modern dining room inspired by Yōshoku cuisine, an interpretation of western food through an Asian lens. ....

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