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This is a story I meant to write over a year ago, before I owned any masks. That’s roughly the time Tabu Shabu opened up in the North Park property that was the long, long time home of Paesano’s Italian restaurant. Place 3647 30th St, San Diego The place could not look more different these days: gone is the “since 1967” green awning out front, and the homey “we love italy” interior. Now, the storefront is covered with a smart wood veneer, and rather than booths and tables, the modernized interior has been given over to a long, U-shaped bar, each seat equipped with an electric, tabletop hot plate. ....