Last modified on Sun 28 Feb 2021 08.35 EST
It is November 2009 and Iâm in a new restaurant on Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles called Animal. I have been in the city for three weeks, serving as a judge on a TV food contest, all British piss and vinegar to the familiar American gush, and Iâm missing my family terribly. No matter, for here on the menu is roast bone marrow with parsley salad, the dish made famous by the chef Fergus Henderson at his Clerkenwell restaurant St John. His guiding principle: âIf youâre going to bang an animal on the head itâs only polite to eat it all.â