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In B.C. (before COVID) times, Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s shows were some of the buzziest events at New York Fashion Week. Set in abandoned banks or crumbling Lower East Side parks, the designer typically cast her own stylish, self-assured friends as models, including Hailey Benton Gates, Susan Cianciolo, and Ana Kras. Her shows had a palpable energy, and the clothes had something too; they were arty, thought-provoking, and occasionally pretty weird, but within a few months, you’d see copies everywhere. Zadeh helped define the colorful, mismatched Lower East Side look in the 2010s, which she’s described as “odd elegance.” It continues to influence the market. ....