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Eva Chin took over Momofuku Kōjin’s University Avenue kitchen eight days before the pandemic hit. Not only has she had to shift the menu toward takeout, she’s also overhauled its geographic orientation. The flavours now lean Asian-Pacific, and the locus is Hawaii, where Chin grew up. At Kōjin, Chin has reimagined her home state’s iconic loco moco a rice dish layered with a meat patty, fried eggs and lots of gravy into a burger. “I always wanted it to be handheld so you could eat it while setting up your surf board,” she says. Mission accomplished. Here’s how to make Chin’s saucy smash burger at home. ....

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