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Alex Staniloff/Eater NY
Against the backdrop of a pandemic that has shuttered at least a thousand restaurants and that has forced over 100,000 hospitality staffers out of work, Michelin’s anonymous inspectors published their rigid 2021 assessment of New York City restaurants today. The so-called Red Guide awarded new stars to just seven venues and withheld them from many more acclaimed institutions.
New entrants to the single-star category include Rezdora, Stefano Secchi’s wildly popular Italian restaurant; Tsukimi, an East Village kaiseki venue; Jua, Hoyoung Kim’s modern Korean tasting menu spot; Don Angie, the whimsical Italian-American venue in Greenwich Village; Kochi, a Korean skewer restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen; Vestry, a Soho seafood spot from chef Shaun Hergatt, and Francie, John Winterman and Christopher Cippollone’s French-Italian Brooklyn hangout.
The 2021
Michelin Bib Gourmands are here, marking the Red Guide’s return to New York City as the COVID-stricken hospitality industry slowly continues the process of rebuilding itself. The famously anonymous inspectors, who did not issue ratings last year during the height of the pandemic, will drop their more prestigious starred selections on Thursday. Today, however, the guide unveiled 131 standout dining options on the more affordable side of the culinary spectrum, 30 of which are newcomers to the list.
Among this year’s biggest additions to the Bibs are Thai Diner, the all-day Southeast Asian-American spot from the team that used to run Uncle Boons; Nami Nori, the popular Greenwich Village temaki restaurant; Xilonen, the vegetable-forward Greenpoint Mexican venue by chef Alan Delgado and the Oxomoco crew; Winner, chef Daniel Eddy’s Park Slope cafe; For All Things Good, the heralded Bed-Stuy masa spot; Rangoon, chef Myo Moe’s Burmese spot in Prospect Heights; and Bolero,
published in 1914, already recommended travelling to Varese on the
Porto Ceresio railway,
which, in 1905,
had been taken over by the Ferrovia dello Stato (FS – State Railway company). The line was intended to be âchosen by the Ferrovia Nord railway company,
because the equipment (trains etc.)
was more comfortable and fasterâ, thanks to electrical power.
Gone was the smoking steam locomotive that blew ash and soot onto the spotless dresses of the Milanese ladies;
the people went to Central Station, outside the gate of Porta Venezia (now Piazza Repubblica) and looked for the platform for Varese, without getting too close to the panting black locomotives. And the number of journeys from Milan to the foothills of Varese (twenty trains a day, and more!) made the ride comfortable even for short stays.
Chef Hélène Darroze
| Photo Credit:
NICOLASBUISSON.COM
The French chef behind Michelin-starred kitchens in London and Paris and single mother to two young girls, was awarded the guide’s top rating last week
Don’t set out to be a man in the kitchen. This has consistently been Hélène Darroze’s advice to young women in her profession. Part of a small group of celebrated female chefs who have been breaking boundaries in a male dominated industry, she should know. Last week, Darroze once again made headlines as her eponymous restaurant at The Connaught in London joined Michelin’s vaunted three-star club. The French chef has often emphasised that she is no radical feminist. Over a phone call late in 2019, she explained to