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The sun s not even up yet and it s already warm on Magnetic Island. In Queensland, where the locals famously get up with the chooks, the island s taxi drivers won t be lured from bed till the night-loving possums and backpackers have tucked themselves up for the day. I m feeling the heat: my chopper departs before first light and there s no way to get to the helipad. The dilemma is solved when the manager of my accommodation – the Bungalow Bay Koala Village – flips me his own car keys with the instructions, Just stick them under the car mat when you re done. That s so Maggie. ....