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A Multi-Day Walking Safari Is the Best Way to See Kenya s Wildlife
Mary Holland
© Greg Funnell
Mara Naboisho Conservancy, near Maasai Mara National Reserve
The guide clicks his fingers. After three days of walking with Mpatinga Ole Nkuito, I know he is signaling a warning. We look up to see a bull elephant 50 feet away, striding through the spiny grass in search of a mate. “If he smells us, we re in big trouble,” whispers Roelof Schutte, my other guide. It s unmistakable, from the secretion that trickles down the side of the bull s head, that he s in musth which means he s aggressive and hormonal. We stop dead, shoulders pinched to our ears. I ve seen animals in musth before, but on foot it s infinitely more hair-raising. Schutte shakes his wind checker, a cylindrical brass container that releases baby powder, to establish which way the wind is blowing. The creature can t see us, but one shift in the wind and he could pick up our scent. “T ....

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