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A Crackling Good Quest: The Make it Snappy Edition

Oil or butter? Or both – or neither? Salt, or not? How about liquids – how do you get the meat of a pork joint succulent and cooked through yet also end up with perfectly crisp rind, that wondrous thing that every pork lover craves: the perfect pork crackling?
Caroline Conran, and it’s wise to consult very English cooks on this subject, urges us, when roasting a loin of pork, to rub the crackling with a little butter (“don’t sprinkle it with salt, as this will toughen the crackling”), then roast at 220℃ for 10 to 15 minutes, then reduce to 190℃ for 20 minutes per 500℃ plus another 20 minutes. “Don’t,” she instructs, “baste the crackling, just let it cook and it will be crisp and delicious.” ....

United Kingdom , Heather Davies , Louis Pieterse , Felicity Cloake , Carol Birch , Delia Smith , Marco Pierre White , Neal Derman , Caroline Conran , Pierre White , Western Cape , Clinton Thorogood , ஒன்றுபட்டது கிஂக்டம் , ஹீத்தர் டேவிஸ் , லூயிஸ் பீட்டர்ஸ் , கரோல் பிர்ச் , டெலியா ஸ்மித் , மார்கோ பியர் வெள்ளை , நீல் டெர்மன் , கரோலின் காந்ரெந் , பியர் வெள்ளை , மேற்கு கேப் , கிளின்டன் த்ரோகுட் ,

Fay Maschler on 48 years at the Standard: Sharing my table with this city has been an honour

I
t is 1972. I am 27. My friend Dusty Wesker, wife of Arnold Wesker who is great mate of my then husband Tom, thrusts an Evening Standard at me announcing a competition they are running whereby the prize is to be the paper’s restaurant critic. With one or maybe even both of my two small daughters – the younger only a few months old – in my arms or round my feet I am thinking I probably shouldn’t be considering a job, but grievously I miss working, having been a copywriter at JWT and a journalist on the new, improved Radio Times. And the prize obtains only for three months…what harm can it do? I enter on the closing date. ....

United Kingdom , Republic Of , South Kensington , Kensington And Chelsea , City Of , New Zealand , Dollis Hill , Mouton Rothschild , Le Coq , Rose Gray , Maison Fran , Downshire Hill , Rowley Leigh , Simon Jenkins , Simon Hopkinson , Basma Khan , Ford Cortina , Caroline Conran , Marina Oloughlin , Quentin Crewe , Julyan Wickham , Kaz Michalik , Amy Gadney Bevan , Nico Ladenis , Jonathan Meades , Matthew Norman ,