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Empire of joy

The midday sun is almost unbearable. During the dry season, farmlands crack. Nothing is growing. It is hard to imagine that the area along Highway 2074 (the Buri Ram-Nang Rong road) in Khu Muang district in Buri Ram province can one day become fertile land.

Taking a Bite Out of Chiang Mai

The mountainous Thai province has emerged as a hub of sustainable agriculture, with forward-thinking chefs in its namesake city taking full advantage of the bounty of local produce. Photographs by Marisa Marchitelli Left to right: A footbridge leads to growing tunnels at Ori9in Farm, a half-hour drive from downtown Chiang Mai; Duck schnitzel with sesame bok choy at the farm’s Waiting for May restaurant. Though dinner is still a few hours away, Phanuphon Bulsuwan is already guiding me on a remarkable culinary expedition. Not just backstage through his kitchen, but into storage rooms packed with large glass beakers, colorful cultures swirling inside. Better known as Chef Black, Bulsuwan is co-owner of Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, a compact restaurant whose dedication to hyperlocal ingredients and fermentation techniques has put the city of Chiang Mai on the global foodie map.

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