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On a sunny January morning on Vashon Island, librarians on their lunch break stretch out in a socially distanced line at Iyad’s Syrian Grill. The food cart can easily be spotted across the street from the library even on the rainiest Washington days, its bright turmeric-colored awning stretching out to welcome customers. Since Iyad Alati and Safa Jneidi opened the cart in April 2019, their recipes have grown a dedicated following, especially among the island’s librarians.
The staccato rhythm of Iyad’s spatulas mingles with the sound of neighbors chatting through face masks. Aromas of garlic mixed with warm spices and honeyed saffron are thick in the winter air as the chef works quickly to prepare another order of lamb shawarma. Diners can taste the earthy flavor of mushrooms in the shawarma, which contrasts with the sweetness of plump raisins, each dish nestled beside rich swirls of hummus.