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I first arrived in Turkey as a young woman in 1975 to study at Ankara’s Hacettepe University, unaware that Turkey was experiencing a low-level civil war. My first clue was right outside the airplane in which I landed, where a strange, ungainly vehicle with a mounted gun was parked on the tarmac right below the exit stairs. I soon learned to recognize this as an armored personnel carrier or APC. They were stationed in every main square, menacing the traffic, ready to leap into action. I learned how fast they move when one day, carrying a sack of laundry through a crowd, I came face to face with two of them blocking the road. They looked enormous. They began to move towards us, then sped up and charged the crowd. Someone pulled me out of the way just in time and threw me into a protective doorway. Clutching my laundry, I joined some others running down a side street. The APCs leapt onto the sidewalk with great agility, like enormous cockroaches, and chased us. ....