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A crowd of roughly 50 patrons queued up near the shiny Birria-Landia truck in Jackson Heights at 6 p.m. on a recent Friday. There, just a block away from Elmhurst Hospital the epicenter of the fight against the pandemic last spring cooks sent out drippy, saucy, Tijuana-style tacos for $3 a pop. After 20 minutes of waiting, I fetched my order, crouched down on the sidewalk, and dunked beef fat-griddled tortillas into a spicy, cilantro-studded consomme. My insides warmed up like a radiator. Still hungry, I biked down Roosevelt Avenue to Todo Rico, for conchas, then to Fama Bakery, for sweet-salty Colombian buñelos. Finally, I hopped on the 7 train and finished things off with a giant mojito and Cuban sandwich from Guantanamera in Hell’s Kitchen, which I consumed in my apartment, on my floor, while watching a lousy made-for-Netflix movie. I fell asleep very happy. ....