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Lunchtime in Cheronissos, a sleepy, horseshoe-shaped harbour on the northern tip of Sifnos, and the blue wooden tables at the waterfront fish taverna of the same name are full. On the menu today is just-caught bream and mackerel, which we pick out from an ice-packed tray, then eat grilled with an olive-oil-drizzled Greek salad. Such simple yet delicious feasts are a major part of the appeal of this Cyclades island, a two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing from Athens, which has a reputation as a standout culinary destination.
In part, this stems from its being the birthplace of the influential early-20th-century chef Nikolaos Tselementes, who wrote the first cookbook in Greece (before that, recipes were passed on by word of mouth). But the island’s renown is also backed up by an abundance of fresh produce – wild caper plants grow through the cracks of stone walls at the side of the road; there are clusters of olive trees in car parks; and a great meal is almo ....

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