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The iconic roadside attraction in Mitchell, S.D., is an unintended window into America’s complex relationship with its leading agricultural commodity. To think of it as just rural nostalgia is to miss the point.

United statesNorth dakotaDistrict of columbiaEnvironmental protection agencyMount rushmoreSouth dakotaCorn palaceSaudi arabiaDavison countyKen rudinDoug greenwayMichael pollanZea maysSd david kiddGeorge mcgovern mitchellClark griswold