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In my pursuit of ideal European destinations for toddlers, many accompanied by my son over the years, Copenhagen emerged as a top contender back in 2001. Its pedestrian-friendly areas, moderate climate (perfect for tots who dislike heat), and the warmth of its people left a lasting impression. But what if you're without children, in search of an adult-oriented, child-free experience? Revisiting Denmark, this time exploring its coastal region known as Kystlandet, I found myself in a very grown-up Denmark, not the land of Lego or mermaids. It offers a fascinating and haunting experience, one of living legends as well as those of the past. They are not so much stoic as tenacious. The people you will meet, and those you will see looking back at you from old photographs, even staring back at you amongst your finds in the second-hand book capital of Europe, will stay with you long after you have left. This is a place you could visit with your partner, your friend, or solo, indeed, and

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