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Fortunate Gooseberry2635 Cherokee Street, 314-776-2337. Thurs.-Sat. 4-10 p.m. (Closed Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.) Fried tofu basket $9; Gyro tacos $9; St. Paul pizza $15• Carryout and outdoor dine-in; contactless ordering Kim Bond remembers the exact moment that culinary genius struck. A few years ago back when self-serve food buffets were a real thing and not a relic of the Before Times she and her partner, Ross Lessor, loved running pizza nights at their Dutchtown restaurant, Gooseberries. It was a weekly spectacle, when they d shut down the rest of their offerings and put out pans filled with all kinds of pizzas, sometimes asking their guests what toppings they d like to see on the next batches. ....