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Pollo Sophia. Thin slices under luscious lake. She looks down on you as you come in. Sophia. Sophia Loren, that is. Her portrait is on the wall here, lit up like a Mona Lisa. We’re in a very cool-looking building with a canvas-hooped walk-up saying “Exclusivo: Sophia, Cucina Italiana. This is in Tijuana, in Colonia Madero-Cacho, heading east from the top of Revolución. Chef Puzzo, receptionist Jasmine, and Sophia. It’s all happening because I got a craving for paella. Usually, for me, paella’s kinda boring. Just a mess of rice and shellfish. It’s a Spanish dish, not Mexican, so no real spicy heat to dial it up. But now and then, it has a kind of magic, maybe because it’s big and round and golden and your four favorite people are diving into it with you. The place I’m thinking of is Paellas Toñico. It’s usually full of music, noise. Hmm. That’d be nice. And TJ Covid figures are down, too. So, this being a Sunday afternoon, and with light crowds h ....