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Pogiboy s riff on a bloomin onion. Photograph by Paolo Dungca.
Chef Tom Cunanan spent five years leading the tiny kitchen at Bad Saint, the famed Filipino destination in Columbia Heights that got attention from all over the country and earned him a James Beard Award. But after leaving in August, he’s looking beyond the Philippines for his own restaurant.
It’s easy to forget that Cunanan, who shot to fame when Bad Saint opened, has actually been cooking in DC for 21 years. His resume hops around several American and French restaurants. There was Corduroy (his first job at age 17, thanks to the Boys and Girls Club); then the historic Occidental near the White House; then La Chaumiere, the venerable Georgetown bistro. Along the way he made stops at many now-closed dining rooms that were big deals back in their day: Southern fine dining restaurant Vidalia, seafood-focused Hook and DC Coast, and tasting-menu spot PS7’s. When Cunanan finds a restaurant space in DC, he h ....

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