I cycled through meadows of wild flowers and wild horses to the Baltic coast, and then, when the path faltered, left my bike behind and continued on foot. Enamel-bright dragonflies buzzed around my legs, while black cormorants and white egrets erupted out of reed beds as I approached, flapping lazily around the big sky before settling again.
I’m on a terrace on the west coast of the westernmost island in Estonia, watching the longest sunset I’ve ever seen. It’s a few evenings after the summer solsti