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Sitwell tucking in at The Pig-at Combe Credit: Marco Kesseler Inside, outside, on top, underneath…Frankly, as long as restaurants reopen, I don’t mind where I get a table. And a sneak preview of England’s glorious hospitality reboot has me excitedly jumping for joy at the prospect. In less than a fortnight, all being well, we will be able to leave our homes, see some friends, eat, drink, browse and sluice, talk seriously, shout frivolously, and do so in the knowledge that someone else will be washing up. People like me bang on about the glories of Britain’s food scene; the dextrous, diverse and delectable choice that is now available. And not having had it makes us now relish it in such a proudly tantalising way.

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