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In the thick of a pandemic and a countrywide lockdown, there’s nowhere to go except outdoors. So on a cold January day with blustery winds and a rain-snow mix in the forecast, we headed to Johanniskreuz, a hamlet in the heart of the Pfalz Forest about 11 miles south of Kaiserslautern. In the summer and fall, the village is a meeting place for bikers drawn to the scenic, twisting backroads that cut through the forest. But for decades, it was the site of an annual Roman Catholic convention, a tradition that ended in 2007 due to the danger of old trees falling on the venue. ....