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Pasta di Solazzi’s fragrant creamy tarragon sauce over their fresh conchiglie
Griffin Swartzell
Fresh noodles are a gift unto the world. There’s nothing wrong with dried pasta — my husband thinks it’s one of civilization’s best culinary conveniences, and it’s hard to disagree. But the fresh stuff’s something special. It has a certain texture when it’s bitten into that’s yielding but substantial in a way that’s just lovely. It is possible to get something of the same texture in higher-end dried pasta, the kind with a rough, no-gloss exterior.
But Pasta di Solazzi didn’t return from 20 years of hiatus to screw around. Gina Solazzi and Gregg Braha first opened their Italian joint in 1982, maintaining it over 19 years and across multiple relocations. Now, they’re back, operating as a ghost kitchen from The Chef s Kitchen on Eighth Street, offering pickup and limited deliveries of a ....

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