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Poke As We Know It Now Isn’t Native Hawaiian. So What Is?
Old-school ‘ono.
“We say it all the time: Our ‘ono has changed,” says Hi‘ilei Kawelo. “My ‘ono has changed from my dad’s ‘ono; even the kids we work with now, it’s changed. We try to reintroduce some of that ‘ono to their palate, because that’s our culture.”
That includes traditional raw preparations of
i‘a, a word that encompasses anything that comes from the ocean, including fish, he‘e,
wana (sea urchin), ‘opihi and crab, says Kawelo, who comes from a family of fishers and divers and is the executive director of Paepae o He‘eia, a nonprofit dedicated to caring for an ancient Hawaiian fishpond. I‘a simply salted with perhaps a bit of limu and/or ‘inamona sounds naked compared to popular shoyu/sesame oil/mayo-sauced concoctions. But with strong-tasting reef fish like manini and kala, wana that makes uni taste like insipid cream, and iodine-flavored wild limu kohu and l