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But it should be pointed out that we are still within the confines of the tourist triangle, areas permissible for travel. whole sectors of this country, much of it, in fact, are off-limits. simply put, there is shit going on they do not want you to see. a low-intensity conflict with the ethnic kachin tribe would be one of them, a wave of persecution and deaths in rhakine state. the country may be opening up at its center, but all along the edges it s waging a desperate war to hang on to the status quo. needless to say, the status quo is not good. philippe: all right. bagan, here we come. ....
Lost a wheel, uh, and the dining car. so, we get a new anthony: well, no, we lost the dining car, i hear. philippe: we lost the dining car, but even our original sleeping car lost a wheel. so, we just have to hope for the best. anthony: the night express to bagan, 600 kilometers of what will turn out to be kidney-softening travel by rail. but bagan, myanmar s ancient capital, i ve been told, is a must-see. philippe: the true old english experience. the engine is a french engine from the 70s. anthony: we ve been told it s a somewhat uncomfortable ten-hour trip. so really, the question on this end of the journey is, come back on the train or flying coffin? mishaps on both burmese planes and trains are not, shall we say, unheard of. the widowmaker express. philippe: the uh, that is the choice. so, that may be the signal to, uh, depart at some point. anthony: yeah. all aboard? ....
anthony: 1,000 years ago, bagan was the capital for a long line of kings. it s the sort of place where the old coexists with the even older. as elsewhere in this part of the world, in many of the buddhist temples here, far older animist spirit-based beliefs coexist with more recent buddhism. and, in myanmar, worship of the nats is widespread. nats, as i understand it, are more like greek gods, former humans, demigods, spirits, often with very human qualities and failings. dance performances pay homage to the individual nats, performers claiming to actually channel them, bringing about, one hopes, a beneficial spiritual possession. ....
Done. now, this is breakfast. anthony: nearly 19 hours into our 10-hour trip, and the night express to bagan lurches and bounces onward over old and poorly maintained tracks. could have flown back to new york for breakfast. i i had time. what s in yours? philippe: carrots. root. anthony: i got potatoes in mine. philippe: how to make good food pretty. look at this. anthony: a bouquet of fish. philippe: indeed. so, this is it. this is the plain of bagan. anthony: out the window, the modern world seems to fade away, then disappear altogether, like the last century never happened, or even the century before that. we re traveling across the largest mainland nation in southeast asia. ....
1,000. done. now, this is breakfast. nearly 19 hours into our ten-hour trip in the night express to bagan lurches and bounces onward over old and poorly maintained track. fly back to new york for breakfast. i haven t had time. what s yours? arrowroot. potato. how do you make good look at this, a bouquet of fish. indeed. this is the plain of bagan. out the window, the modern world seems to fade away, then disappear all together, like the ....