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On A wet and wind-whipped day, Antrim’s serpentine coastline can feel like the most exposing place on earth. When the sun shines, though, and the Irish Sea twinkles like cyan sequins under its warm blaze, you begin to understand why saints and giants settled here. It’s on one such celestial autumn day that I’m tramping the century-old path hugging Islandmagee, known as the Gobbins. Punctuating the Causeway Coastal Route, about 40 minutes from Belfast, the cliff-face walk is famed as Northern Ireland’s most dramatic and that’s saying something, with Finn McCool’s basalt stepping stones further up the road.