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This $18 Pinot Gris is a jolt of the cool, briny Santa Cruz ocean air In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends a textured, racy, oceanic white wine FacebookTwitterEmail Welcome to Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a light, ethereal Grenache . online every Wednesday. Maybe it was the seaweed on the label. Maybe it was the fact that the bottle was nearly ice-cold. Whatever it was, when I took a sip of the Assiduous Wines 2019 Pinot Gris, from Santa Cruz County, I felt jolted awake, invigorated, as if I’d suddenly been pounded by a current of cool, briny ocean air. ....