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A 1950s highway, bleached to sepia by the Caribbean sun, leads from Cuba’s Santa María beaches through palm and hibiscus. It passes close to the fishing village of Cojímar, crests a small rise and there is Havana, sweeping frontage wounded but upright against the turbulent waters of the Florida Straits. During Havana’s first centuries, its vast natural harbour was filled with Spanish treasure ships waiting to be shepherded home against British. ....
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