tokyo s willing cog, in an enormous machine requiring long hours, low pay, total dedication. and sometimes, what s called karoshi, death by overwork. here in a society of tight spaces and many expectations, the pressure s on. to keep up appearances, to do what s expected. to not let the interior life become exterior. but at night, things are different. what do you need to know about tokyo? deep, deep waters. the first time i came here, it was like it was a transformative, experience. it was a powerful and violent experience. it was as if it was just like taking acid for the first time. meaning, what do i do now? i see the whole world in a different way. i often compare the experience of going to japan for the first time, going to tokyo for the first time, to what eric clapton and pete townsend must ve gone through, the reigning guitar gods of england, what they must ve gone through the week that jimi hendrix came to town. you hear about it, you go see it, the whole
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three, distance. this same idea applies to the convention shunning sushi techniques of new york city legend naomichi yasuda. until recently, the chef partner of one of the very best, if not the best sushi restaurant in new york, the eponymous sushi yasuda. a short while ago, under very mysterious and completely misreported circumstances, he left the manhattan restaurant which still bears his name, and at age 52, moved to tokyo to start all over again. i was determined to track him down and see what the hell he was doing. these days, this great man is running a 14-seat sushi bar in the minato district of tokyo.
ready for the next move. most people who don t understand sushi, who go to a sushi bar and say, oh, i had the best sushi last night, the fish was so fresh. it was right out of the ocean. the freshest fish, there is no taste. it s just chewy, just hard. and, people think, oh freshest should be good. but it wasn t. yasuda s menu changes constantly with what he finds in the market. and like thousands of other sushi chefs, he heads every day to tsukiji, tokyo s central fish market, where nearly 3,000 tons of the world s best seafood arrives every day. but unlike most others at his level, who arrive at 4:00 am to cream off what they perceive as the best and freshest, yasuda-san arrives later. he does not buy the ridiculously expensive otoro, the fatty belly meat of the blue fin tuna, that people have been known to pay hundreds of dollars a pound for.
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