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Chef Taiji Maruyama
Credit: Milo Brown
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Behind the scenes 
Third generation sushi chef Taiji Maruyama – young, pony-tailed, chatty – is a new name to me, but he’s come up through top addresses: two Michelin star Ginza Kojyu in Tokyo, Nobu, and most recently the Japanese Grill at Surrey country house Beaverbrook. At 21 he was, I gather, one of the youngest chefs ever to get his blowfish license. Not terribly useful in Mayfair (or Surrey) but a fun fact nonetheless. Maru is sister restaurant to Taka in Marylebone, run by siblings Andrey and Anastasia Datsenko, both Tokyo-born-and-bred.
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