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?It takes courage to open a restaurant, more so than ever now with crippling costs and taxes bringing about an unprecedented number of closures over the last six months, including some longstanding establishments. However, truth be told, despite all the hard work, worry and long hours, there’s simply nothing like the excitement and satisfaction of working for yourself. “Fortune favours the brave,” they say, which brings us to the new Esther’s in Mount Merrion, a project of passion by chef patron Derek Kelly along with his partner and front-of-house, the delightful and knowledgeable Nicole Keegan, aided and abetted by sous chef Myles Behan. The trio met when they all worked in the magnificent 5-star Carton House in Maynooth so you can bet that these guys know their onions. ....