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Highways & Byways: Overlooked and unloved?

Taiwan’s six special municipalities, three smaller cities and thirteen counties are subdivided into 368 geographical units. Among them are municipal districts like Taipei’s Wenshan (文山); county-administered cities such as Yuanlin (員林) in Changhua County; urban townships like Luodong (羅東) in Yilan County; and rural townships, of which Nantou County’s Sinyi (信義) is one of the largest in terms of land area if not population.
In several of these places, for example Lukang (鹿港) and Hengchun (恆春), tourism is a major industry. Many others are ignored, rightly or wrongly, by sightseers.
This article looks at four perennially overlooked towns. None of them ....

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Highways & Byways: Charming antiquity: Tainan's Yanshuei District

It’s as if the outside world conspired to rob Yanshuei (鹽水) of its importance and prosperity.
As waterways filled with silt, access to the ocean which had made it possible for this little town, several kilometers from the sea in the northern part of Tainan, to become a major entrepot was lost. The north-south railway, a key driver of economic development during the 1895-1945 period of Japanese rule, never arrived. Then, in the 1970s, the sugar industry went into terminal decline.
Like Taiwan’s other old settlements, Yanshuei used to be a walled town. The defensive barrier is long ....

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Highways and Byways: Dereliction of beauty: Tainan's intriguing ruins

I adore buildings that have been ravaged by time, and I’m not the only one.
The greater part of Taiwan’s built environment is less than 50 years old, yet there’s no shortage of structures that look like they’re waiting for the wrecking ball. Tainan, the oldest of the country’s major cities, as well as its former capital, has several fascinating ruins.
Here are four of them.
<strong>THE DOCTOR’S ABODE</strong>
Less than 100m southeast of the Martial Temple (武廟) in Tainan’s Yanshui District (鹽水), there’s a walled plot about 2,700m2 (about 800 ping) in size. On it, largely obscured by banyan trees, stand ....

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