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Dec. 16, 2020 7:00 am ET Thousands of businesses closed in the months after the coronavirus pandemic swept the country. In October, Duwaine Harris opened Stella’s, a Caribbean restaurant on Brooklyn’s Fifth Avenue. The chef was collecting unemployment but, because of his frequent contact with his mother, the restaurant’s namesake, was wary of being called back into a crowded kitchen and endangering her health. “I can’t go back and work for anybody,” Mr. Harris told his wife in the kitchen of their Bronx apartment. A good deal from the landlord, kitchen equipment left behind by the previous tenant and money cobbled together from family members, credit cards, the couple’s savings and a loan from a Covid-19 relief program, put Stella’s in business. ....