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Mark Healey on Swimming Back to Shore In Heavy Surf

What do you do when your leash or board breaks on a big day? Mark Healey reviews the smartest and safest route and why this gameplan is often counterintuitive.

Mark Healey | The Inertia

Mark Healey grew up with the pulse of the ocean in his blood. Hailing from the North Shore of Oahu, his world was shaped by the ever-changing sea and the lush tropical landscape that surrounded him. Mark had dreams of becoming a marine biologist as a boy but, while still in middle school, his oceanic calling found him in a different venue. Healey first blew the surf scene’s collective mind in a magazine photo spread. The shutter snapped, as an ant-sized, unidentified 14-year-old flew down the face of a 40-footer at notorious Waimea Bay, and Mark Healey’s life course was altered forever. Since then he’s surfed in every big wave event there is, from the Oahu-based Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Memorial Contest, to the traveling Big Wave World Tour. The BWWT is especially innovative in its mandate of paddle-in surfing only and its 50-foot+ wave requirement. Winning contests is an undeniable high, but the real gift Healey’s surfing career has given him is a ticket to wander the planet. As

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