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Cook dinner with Robert Carrier and you’ll need butter, cream, wine and quite a lot of cognac Jay Rayner © Provided by The Guardian Photograph: Steve Lyne/Alamy The late Robert Carrier loved butter. He loved butter the way small children love puppies. Early on in his masterpiece, Great Dishes of the World, he writes: “To my mind there is nothing that quite replaces butter in cooking.” Then he gives margarine a fabulous eyeroll. He’s keen on cream, too. And brandy. Lots of brandy. His friends point out that Carrier was a restless soul, who moved with the times. In later years, they say, he lightened his recipes.

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