Wess St. Victor was about 10 the first time he tasted rib tips, the short sections trimmed from the ends of the slab-like servings Americans are so fond of, particularly this time of year. His family had emigrated from Haiti to Chicago two years earlier, and on this fateful day, St. Victor’s brother came home from football practice with a take-away box. “It was the best thing I ever ate,” St. .
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