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Albee Layer Nearly Killed His Buddy While Surfing Gigantic Jaws for the First Time (Clip)

The hits keep comin’ from Hawaii following the historic Black Friday swell. While much of the attention was focused on Oahu’s North Shore – with survival sessions at the Outer Reefs from Nate Florence, Koa Rothman, et al, lifeguard towers flooded by rogue waves, maxing out Waimea Bay, etc. – Maui . ....

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Watch: Nate Florence Solo Surfs Psycho Slab, Questions Mortality

In his collection of short stories, The Things They Carried, novelist Tim O’Brien writes: “Though it's odd, you're never more alive than when you're almost dead.” Of course, O’Brien was writing about American soldiers in the Vietnam War, young men literally staring death in the face. But . ....

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